Missoula MT * mile 2722

Asterisk day. Given the heat, distances, lack of services (water and food), and wife Linda's arrival in Spokane on 7/3, I rented a car in Helena. This was so I could get to Missoula, 114 miles away, today, and make the upcoming days' rides more manageable. However, the forecast for the next few days is for temperatures of 100 degrees.

So this morning I rode up McDonald Pass to the Continental Divide without carrying full gear, to enjoy the cool morning. And as it turned out, lightning and a shower. But just as I left the motel, 4 deer crossed the road to graze on a lawn.
Out of town I met Brian, riding the Great Divide mountain bike route. He is riding a Surly Pugsly with extremely fat tires -- with all the food and water he has to carry, I could barely pick it up. He was at 2,200 miles from the Mexican border. He put my slacking to shame.

Helena MT mile 2683

Left at 7:15, south then west through the Big Belt mountains. Unlike yesterday, the climb out of this dry high plain was relatively short. And no headwind, so I could enjoy the aromas from the purple sage and other flowering plants. But once at the pass, a rapid descent along Deep Creek awaited, with the smells of thick pine and cedar. Long downhill through the green canyon, giving up all the altitude gained yesterday. Then out into dry desert, and further fast downhill coasting, all the way to Townsend, 44 miles from and 1200 ft lower than White Sulphur Springs. After 2nd breakfast, on to Helena, crossing the Missouri again, with big trout visible. Thunderstorm approached Helena as I arrived.

White Sulphur Springs MT mile 2604

Hot, windy, continued. Left at 7am in the cool of the morning, with light west headwind. Saw 4 sandhill cranes, antelope, and a golden eagle. Stopped and chatted with Paul Wipf, a member  of the Hutterite community in Martinsdale. Unlike the Amish and Mennonites, Hutterites live communally, about 100 of them in this settlement. He asked if I could send him a copy of the photo since he didn't have a picture of himself. He had been making soap, thus the apron and long gloves to protect against the lye. 

Later, as I climbed through the Little Belt Mountains against a strengthening head wind, I ran into the American Lung Association Big Ride, from Seattle to D.C. This annual fundraising trip was smaller this year, just 14 riders and 3 support crew, 12 days out of Seattle. My friend Brian O'Sullivan did this in 2007.

And I went to the mineral spring spa here, emerging from the 105 degree pool like a parboiled slightly rotten egg, but very relaxed.

Harlowton MT mile 2543

Hot today, wind again, headwind or sometimes on shoulder. Long day as well, going 91 miles. But much of it was flat or followed a river valley, once I climbed up to the rim of the plateau above Billings. From there a nice view west to real mountains, 11,000 footers with snow on the peaks.

Billings MT mile 2452

Another warm and windy day, but the wildlife and scenery made up for it. Wind NNW 15 mph and gusting more, but as much on shoulder as head wind at times. Barely doing 10 mph as I took old highway 87 west out of Hardin, to avoid interstate 90. The small rattlesnake on the road seemed to be sleeping. I worried that it would get squashed but I didn't dare disturb it. Hardly any traffic anyway. Passed a prairie dog colony, a sweet smelling field of purple sage, and mares nursing colts.
Steep uphill from creek through burned canyon as I approached Billings, then lovely winding descent.

Hardin MT mile 2397

Hot day, with headwind, though sometimes more from the side. Big climb out of Ashland, then rolling open plains. Had breakfast in Lame Deer, in the Northern Cheyenne reservation. Leaving town I passed teenagers and younger kids, some running, some waiting on the side of the road. Then a car passed and stopped, and they explained that today was the anniversary of the Little Bighorn battle--137 years ago. So a youth group was commemorating it by doing a relay run to the battlefield. For the next few hours cars and vans passed me, dropping off and picking up runners. I said hello and encouraged the runners as I went by. At the battlefield there was also a group of Cheyenne horseriders. The Sioux had had their ceremonies in the morning; the Cheyenne in the afternoon. When the runners finally arrived I went to visit them at the site celebrating the native warriors. They included me in their circle, in the ritual spiritual cleansing with incense, and even asked me to speak and join them in their meal afterwards. The group sponsoring this annual event is led by Philip White Man, a very effective speaker who led the prayers and chants and generously included me in this event.

Ashland MT mile 2316

Short day, only rode this morning since too hot after noon, and I was delayed by road construction. Will have to cross two reservations, with only one town the next 60 miles, so best to start early tomorrow.
I chatted with Charlie Carson outside the grocery in Ashland, and he volunteered to be my guide to this very interesting town on the edge of the Northern Cheyenne reservation. A year ago, during the drought, fires burned much of this area. His ranch was not damaged, being 35 miles away over rough gravel roads (otherwise he would have taken me there). He only came to town today to get his tires repaired and buy beer and milk. But he did show me the Father Labre mission and school, with Cheyenne museum and chapel. We also went to a discount store in the Amish section of this community.
We spent 3 hours talking, comparing our lives. He and his wife drove through from VA heading to Alaska 38 years ago but got caught in a snowstorm. They were hippies in a VW van but ended up staying in this conservative hard scrabble town. She raised their 3 boys while teaching in a one room schoolhouse, while he learned to shoe horses and work  construction and became a rancher. They left the ranch for twelve years so their sons could go to high school on the San Juan Islands in Puget Sound. Their sons went on scholarships to Harvard, Middlebury, and U. of MT. 
Another random yet fascinating encounter on this journey.
And of course a storm is approaching this evening.

Charlie Carson

Broadus MT mile 2270

Bright blue sky, 55 degrees when I start before 7am, and a headwind, 10 to 15 mph. Fairly flat, long views, manage 11 or 12 mph most of the day-- 98 miles in 8 1/2 hours. Does warm up, but still a great day to ride. See antelope, and a very out of place looking turkey, scrambling alongside the highway fence trying to escape into the fields.
Crossing into Montana I met Diego and Wenndy, from Spain, heading to Devils Tower and Yellowstone. They had flown in to Chicago, where Diego had bought the motorcycle on Ebay. He planned to ship it home when they depart from LA.
Diego assumed I was European since he never saw Americans touring by bike back in Spain, where he's a policeman in Navarro. And no, he didn't pull me over for speeding. 

Another Belle Fourche day

Woke up to thunder and some rain, then spent the day watching a long stream of showers move NE across my route to Montana. Tomorrow promises to be a better riding day.

But this afternoon a line of severe weather approached from the west, with a tornado watch until this evening. Storm hit at 4:30pm, with lightning, strong wind gusts, and downpours, even some small hail. Still raining.

Earlier I chatted with my neighbor in the Bunkhouse Motel, David. Busted up old cowboy, living here a year and a half, being treated for a heart condition but still smoking cigarettes. His life spanned growing up and ranching off and on in the Pine Ridge Reservation, and years in Alaska doing construction and fishing (until the boat he and two partners had scraped together the money to buy sank on their third trip, out of Homer). He had been a rodeo bullrider, had broken legs and been nearly gored, but he also explained in detail his gentle and patient method of "breaking" horses-- really using sensory conditioning to establish trust. He showed me his pictures, including some of his "house" on the reservation.

"Beautiful Fork" in the rain.

Woke to fog and drizzle, severe thunderstorms with softball size hail to the south. And a northwest wind at 10 to 20 miles, temp. in the fifties. First day of summer.
Since the next town of any size is over 95 miles away, not a day to get caught out on the prairie. Montana (and briefly Wyoming) can wait.

The small stream behind the "Geo center" park merges with two other creeks, thus the "fork." This was a big fur trade center, before the gold rush.

Belle Fourche SD mile 2165

Strong breeze from the north today, after a rainstorm rolled through last night. Followed the bike path along Rapid Creek out of the city-- site of devastating flood 41 years ago, now parks and a golf course. Then up steeply into the Black Hills, much cooler the higher I got. After 2nd breakfast, eggs and huge pancake, had to deal with 13 miles of road destruction on route 385 -- milled surface, with gravel dumped on shoulder to build it up before repaving. Miserable. After a mile at barely 7mph reached flagman and the stopped traffic. So I asked the people in the one pickup in line if they could take me past the construction. Mark and Connie readily agreed, even though only going five miles, and took me to their very deluxe ranch to wait until they would go on to Deadwood later. Spent a very  pleasant two hours on their shaded deck, relaxing.
In Deadwood I visited the Adams Museum, full of gold rush and frontier memorabilia, including the purported cards (Aces & eights, the "deadman's hand") held by Wild Bill Hitchcock when shot in the head from behind in a saloon. The guide said that a witness reported the cards as actually being "Kings full" and Wild Bill lost both the hand and his life.

And approaching Belle "Foosh" I passed a different commemoration of death.

Rapid City SD mile 2107

In case you're wondering about the composition of the peaks and pinnacles of the Badlands, think sand castles. Very crumbly, made up of layers of  brittle rock and dried mud. Erosion is a constant ongoing process here.
Another hot sunny day and a tailwind for much of it. I took the route south of the park, avoiding traffic and enjoying the long views. After about ten miles I noticed a cyclist coming up behind me, Danny from Germany doing an out and back ride to the park. Fascinating fellow: 33 year old architect, on vacation, arrived in NY and planned to ride across country; frustrated by rains, tried to take his bike on bus or train but they insist bikes be boxed and treated as luggage. So unlike enlightened Europe. His solution: rent a car, sleep in it to save motel costs and carry groceries. Plus he can now see more national parks, take nice rides (and long runs and go swimming since he wants to do a triathlon)
Frankly, I became envious when he listed all places he will see. My linear route contrasted poorly with his leapfrogging and flexibility.

Badlands mile 2027

Camping tonight at the park, after a pleasant day of riding helped along sometimes by a light SSE wind. Brilliant sky, quite warm again in the afternoon, but now clouding up. Hoped to star gaze tonight. The colors in the "castles" -- the eroded craggy hills -- were washed out by the bright sun earlier but really show up with the clouds and setting sun.

White River SD mile 1944

Storms west, wind from north. I decided to forgo Yellowstone, in high tourist traffic season. Mostly, I was tired of Nebraska. So I decided to head north and pick up my 1973 route: Badlands, Rapid City, and the more direct route to Spokane.
Weather fatigue more than anything.
Terrain seemed to change as soon as I left Valentine: open plains rather than sandhills, even before crossing into South Dakota. Casino at border, with much bigger sign than SD's "great faces great places."

Continued my Weather Channel ready TV show, "Storm Dodger" as I outpaced another threat apparently headed my way.

And I've seen so many small towns proclaiming their sports prowess on signboards, it was neat to see tiny White River give equal space to their state champion one act plays!