Missoula MT * mile 2722

Asterisk day. Given the heat, distances, lack of services (water and food), and wife Linda's arrival in Spokane on 7/3, I rented a car in Helena. This was so I could get to Missoula, 114 miles away, today, and make the upcoming days' rides more manageable. However, the forecast for the next few days is for temperatures of 100 degrees.

So this morning I rode up McDonald Pass to the Continental Divide without carrying full gear, to enjoy the cool morning. And as it turned out, lightning and a shower. But just as I left the motel, 4 deer crossed the road to graze on a lawn.
Out of town I met Brian, riding the Great Divide mountain bike route. He is riding a Surly Pugsly with extremely fat tires -- with all the food and water he has to carry, I could barely pick it up. He was at 2,200 miles from the Mexican border. He put my slacking to shame.

Helena MT mile 2683

Left at 7:15, south then west through the Big Belt mountains. Unlike yesterday, the climb out of this dry high plain was relatively short. And no headwind, so I could enjoy the aromas from the purple sage and other flowering plants. But once at the pass, a rapid descent along Deep Creek awaited, with the smells of thick pine and cedar. Long downhill through the green canyon, giving up all the altitude gained yesterday. Then out into dry desert, and further fast downhill coasting, all the way to Townsend, 44 miles from and 1200 ft lower than White Sulphur Springs. After 2nd breakfast, on to Helena, crossing the Missouri again, with big trout visible. Thunderstorm approached Helena as I arrived.

White Sulphur Springs MT mile 2604

Hot, windy, continued. Left at 7am in the cool of the morning, with light west headwind. Saw 4 sandhill cranes, antelope, and a golden eagle. Stopped and chatted with Paul Wipf, a member  of the Hutterite community in Martinsdale. Unlike the Amish and Mennonites, Hutterites live communally, about 100 of them in this settlement. He asked if I could send him a copy of the photo since he didn't have a picture of himself. He had been making soap, thus the apron and long gloves to protect against the lye. 

Later, as I climbed through the Little Belt Mountains against a strengthening head wind, I ran into the American Lung Association Big Ride, from Seattle to D.C. This annual fundraising trip was smaller this year, just 14 riders and 3 support crew, 12 days out of Seattle. My friend Brian O'Sullivan did this in 2007.

And I went to the mineral spring spa here, emerging from the 105 degree pool like a parboiled slightly rotten egg, but very relaxed.

Harlowton MT mile 2543

Hot today, wind again, headwind or sometimes on shoulder. Long day as well, going 91 miles. But much of it was flat or followed a river valley, once I climbed up to the rim of the plateau above Billings. From there a nice view west to real mountains, 11,000 footers with snow on the peaks.

Billings MT mile 2452

Another warm and windy day, but the wildlife and scenery made up for it. Wind NNW 15 mph and gusting more, but as much on shoulder as head wind at times. Barely doing 10 mph as I took old highway 87 west out of Hardin, to avoid interstate 90. The small rattlesnake on the road seemed to be sleeping. I worried that it would get squashed but I didn't dare disturb it. Hardly any traffic anyway. Passed a prairie dog colony, a sweet smelling field of purple sage, and mares nursing colts.
Steep uphill from creek through burned canyon as I approached Billings, then lovely winding descent.

Hardin MT mile 2397

Hot day, with headwind, though sometimes more from the side. Big climb out of Ashland, then rolling open plains. Had breakfast in Lame Deer, in the Northern Cheyenne reservation. Leaving town I passed teenagers and younger kids, some running, some waiting on the side of the road. Then a car passed and stopped, and they explained that today was the anniversary of the Little Bighorn battle--137 years ago. So a youth group was commemorating it by doing a relay run to the battlefield. For the next few hours cars and vans passed me, dropping off and picking up runners. I said hello and encouraged the runners as I went by. At the battlefield there was also a group of Cheyenne horseriders. The Sioux had had their ceremonies in the morning; the Cheyenne in the afternoon. When the runners finally arrived I went to visit them at the site celebrating the native warriors. They included me in their circle, in the ritual spiritual cleansing with incense, and even asked me to speak and join them in their meal afterwards. The group sponsoring this annual event is led by Philip White Man, a very effective speaker who led the prayers and chants and generously included me in this event.

Ashland MT mile 2316

Short day, only rode this morning since too hot after noon, and I was delayed by road construction. Will have to cross two reservations, with only one town the next 60 miles, so best to start early tomorrow.
I chatted with Charlie Carson outside the grocery in Ashland, and he volunteered to be my guide to this very interesting town on the edge of the Northern Cheyenne reservation. A year ago, during the drought, fires burned much of this area. His ranch was not damaged, being 35 miles away over rough gravel roads (otherwise he would have taken me there). He only came to town today to get his tires repaired and buy beer and milk. But he did show me the Father Labre mission and school, with Cheyenne museum and chapel. We also went to a discount store in the Amish section of this community.
We spent 3 hours talking, comparing our lives. He and his wife drove through from VA heading to Alaska 38 years ago but got caught in a snowstorm. They were hippies in a VW van but ended up staying in this conservative hard scrabble town. She raised their 3 boys while teaching in a one room schoolhouse, while he learned to shoe horses and work  construction and became a rancher. They left the ranch for twelve years so their sons could go to high school on the San Juan Islands in Puget Sound. Their sons went on scholarships to Harvard, Middlebury, and U. of MT. 
Another random yet fascinating encounter on this journey.
And of course a storm is approaching this evening.

Charlie Carson