America's "Heart City"

Apparently this is a prized post mark for Valentine's Day. But it became a place for me to take the day off, when severe storms approached. Went to the restaurant across the street for  breakfast at dawn, some clouds but much of the sky clear. When I came out, dark sky to south and west. Slow moving storms, one storm went by to the north, but the other developed gradually thisaway.  Thunder and lightning, and finally rain and wind. Hours went by, until I just decided to stay, alternating between the weather channel and Turner classic movies (Citizen Kane, All the king's men, The last hurrah) Plus my book, Absurdistan by Gary Shteyngart. This got great reviews when it came out in 2006, and is a fun read, but seems dated now.
Another storm now seems headed this way, just as well since there isn't much to do in this small town on a Sunday, or on any other day. No postcards, so I can't even get postmarked.
Fortunately my accommodations (the Outback Motel, literally out back of the other cheap motel, both catering more to transients) are cheap yet clean and old fashioned-- see photo. Quite comfy in fact, only $40. Grocery next door, restaurant and liquor store across street. A most convenient place to while away the day in the middle of nowhere.

And a severe thunderstorm watch was just issued...

Valentine NE mile 1886

Awakened by thunder before dawn, thought it was truck noise but it got louder and the lightning flashes came through the blinds. Got up and went outside the motel to watch. South and east, approaching. Then rain, and I went back in for breakfast.
Let up at 8am, so I walked to store to look for a South Dakota map in order to explore my options. Tired of Nebraska, maybe winds will be kinder to the north.
Dawdle, finally leave at 10. Stop at post office to mail some unneeded clothes ahead to my brother in Spokane. If I haven't used them by now, superfluous.

Wind from north as I head NW. Sandhills quite green, lots of birds. Very beautiful.
At Valentine decide to stop early, too warm, windy, too tired.
Options are continue west toward Yellowstone, or just go north to SD and pick up 1973 route. Wind may make up mind.

Ainsworth NE mile 1835

Cool start today with tailwind from SE and clearing sky. Flat green land as I ride along the Elkhorn river (really just a small stream). Make good time until wind shifts south, then from the west. Stop in the small town of Bassett, hoping for tea and pastries since 11:30 seems early for lunch. All out, but cinnamon buns just went in the oven. So I order a cheese sandwich and ice tea, while I wait for my pastry craving satisfaction. Chat with other customers, who tell me about the rodeo, part of Bassett's 125th anniversary. Week long event, this quasquicentennial ("Q125" they call it).  So after huge delicious bun and still more ice tea, I'm off to the "ranch rodeo" -- roping cattle events; yesterday was the bull riding.
90 degrees and strong headwind tell me I'll be here for awhile. Watch the teams of 4 riders (which often include daughters as well as sons from these ranch family teams) cut out one of the herd, then race around until the animal is lassoed neck and hind leg. Another event is called "double mugging" -- where the animal has to be roped, pulled down, then 3 legs tied. Very frenetic, cattle bellowing their dismay.
After an hour I retreat to the public library and chat with the asst. librarian, Rebecca Bodmer, while enjoying the air conditioning and tea she offered. Meanwhile the wind still gusts, shifting to out of the north! Eventually I leave Bassett to its celebrating and head to the next town where I had reserved a motel room earlier -- only getting their last available room, a smoking room alas.

O'Neill NE mile 1765

I stayed at the Argo Hotel last night in Crofton, a very nice B&B in a restored 1912 building. Quaint little town, where all you can eat spaghetti and garlic bread is the recommended fare for a Wed. night at the one open place to eat.
This morning was brilliant blue sky, cool temperature and no wind. I decided to visit the Ashfall Fossil Bed in the afternoon, an active excavation site with the 12 million year old bones of creatures caught Pompeii-like. (Check it out here.)

But after dawdling over lunch in a cafe, I came outside to find that the south sky was dark with a storm moving my way. Decided to try to out ride it, and managed to do so with just sprinkles to spare. But it meant foregoing the detour to see the fossils.

Tonight I'm in the "Irish capital of Nebraska." Which means a giant shamrock painted on the road at the main intersection. But none of the bars offer Guinness.
Chance of thunderstorms tonight and tomorrow morning, strong south wind.

Crofton NE mile 1685

Stopped first thing at Albrecht's Cycle shop, 89th year though they started out dealing Harley's before going to just bikes. 3rd generation Doug was most helpful resolving finally my creaking pedal noise, even taking off the pedals from his own bike and selling them at half price  when he realized he didn't have more in stock. This will probably be the last bike shop until Missoula for me, so I also got chain lube and more  chamois butt'r.
Hard north wind all day, 20mph, hard to ride through heading north and west. Northeastern Nebraska has long rolling hills along the Missouri, similar to the hills I rode yesterday approaching Sioux City. Today's  headwinds made this the hardest day so far.

Sioux City IA mile 1607

Started the day with a delightful ride on the Sauk River Bike Trail, going north and west following a valley dotted with farms and long lines of wind turbines. Wind strong from the ESE, which became a wonderful treat when I turned due west once off the bike trail. But with the wind came heat and bright sunshine. Temperature in the 90's by afternoon. The flat terrain turned hilly as well, with very steep climbs as I approached Sioux City and the Missouri River. Nebraska tomorrow.

Carroll IA mile 1500

Iowa continues to amaze, with friendly people and impressive bike ways. Reggie escorted me to the High Trestle Trail Bridge over the Des Moines river, with art deco columns and steel arches that are illuminated at night [for amazing pictures, search: high trestle trail bridge photos]   On another trail I met Diane Wise, who arranged for me to stay with friends Skip and Rick in Carroll. She also volunteers at All Ability Cycles in the small town of Jefferson, which sells adaptive and recumbent bikes. The shop sponsored an art contest to celebrate bikes which got entries nationwide, including ridable

bike sculptures.
So I rode on bike trails and back roads much of today, reveling in Iowa's RAGBRAI (mass ride held in July) inspired bike culture.