End of the ride

Taking Amtrak's Empire Builder back east, to see the country from a different vantage point. Alaska by bicycle must remain a great notion for now.

Enjoying this train ride, mostly following my 1978 bike route east across the northern plains. Met Brian, who rode from Virginia, only to have his bike stolen in Portland. He's taking it well, since it was an old bike and he's young.

So gentle reader, I thank you for following along,  encouraging and indulging me as I played with this "travelblogue." Hope you had fun with these virtual postcards; I certainly did.

Portland: Beervana/Bikevana

I love the multimodality of this city. The photo, taken from the walkway serving the Oregon Health & Sciences University, shows the cable car connecting it to hospitals on the hill above, light rail tracks, bike lanes, and a bike valet parking and rental station. Just out of the picture was a Car2Go (like Zip car) sign up booth.
Very accessible town, very walkable.
One of the bridges across the Willamette has a bicycle counter, demonstrated by my daughter Clare.
Oh yeah, lots of craft beers, too.

Leaving Spokane

 

 

I'll be getting a ride to Portland early tomorrow. I've been hanging around Jack's horses for a week and I feel I'm as out to pasture as they are. With bike repairs, road fatigue and lingering aches and strains, ambition recedes. Only when you stop do you realize how beat you are, and that there are limits to what you can and want to do. Continuing to ride on to Portland, in high summer, across hot, dry, windy country, with long distances between towns and then bad roads and traffic along the Columbia River, just lost its appeal. 40 years ago I did this route in reverse, in September, after riding in rain south of Seattle and coming down with a cold that eventually turned into bronchitis. I got a ride the last 90 miles after a waitress took pity on me and my hacking cough and arranged a hitch with a truck driver heading to Spokane.

 

As for Alaska, there was a front page story in today's Spokane newspaper about a cyclist chased by a wolf in the Yukon. When he tried to out run it the wolf attacked the guy's packs, even as he sprayed it with bear repellent. The wolf was only driven away when other people stopped and threw rocks at it. The details can be found here: http://www.tinyurl.com/bike-wolf

Spokane idyll

Four days off so far, nice visit, pleasant weather and great food. Losing all ambition, but need to get back on bike and head for Portland or?

Otis Orchards WA mile 2965

Made it to my brother Jack's house just moments before his wife Debi returned from the airport with Linda.
101 miles today, a new time zone, and my first encounters with any other touring cyclists. Mid-morning chatted briefly with a  couple from Canada heading to the east coast. In Sandpoint, just before the 2-mile pedestrian bridge across lovely Pend Oreille Lake I met Lou,  slack packing with just 2 changes of clothes, heading to Detroit. Originally from there, he now lives in Luxembourg, but he had lived long enough teaching in Australia (after years playing basketball in Europe) to sound like an Aussie. Few miles down the road I met Steve and Nancy from Portland ME heading to Calgary to visit their daughter.
And then at the WA border I met two brothers from Spain, Juanjo and Kiko, riding from Seattle to Argentina.
What vicariously international  and extraordinary cycling experiences to pack into my last day on the bike for a while!

Noxon MT mile 2863

Short day, since Noxon was the only place I could get a motel room. Nothing available farther on near Lake Pend Oreille, with the holiday approaching. There was noticeably more traffic as well, with more ups and downs as the valley narrowed at times. And it got hotter sooner today than yesterday. Well into the 90's early this afternoon when I stopped.

About 100 miles to Coeur d'Alene, not sure how far from there to my brother Jack. So a very long day tomorrow in the heat.

I was amazed by this mound of horseshoes at a small ranch along the road, with only 2 horses visible. Could one of them be the Imelda Marcos of horses?

Plains MT mile 2797

Left Missoula just after 6am, cool morning, sun not yet over mountains. Climb up valley for a couple of miles, enter the Flathead Reservation, and then roll down into the flats surrounded by mountains. Follow the Jocko River which joins the Flathead and finally the Clark Fork, which flows all the way into Idaho. After huge pancakes in Ravalli, near the National Bison Range, I make good time going downstream, despite the heat. Get to Plains before 1pm and call it a day, 75 miles. 95 degrees, expected to be over 100 later this afternoon. And it reaches 103 at 6:45.

Liked the signs in the reservation, as well as the animal bridge over the busy highway. But I really enjoyed the gushing spring just before Paradise MT-- piped down the mountain, under the train tracks and up to the road where it pours out; a smaller pipe takes some of it under the road to provide water to the house on the other side.

Missoula MT * mile 2722

Asterisk day. Given the heat, distances, lack of services (water and food), and wife Linda's arrival in Spokane on 7/3, I rented a car in Helena. This was so I could get to Missoula, 114 miles away, today, and make the upcoming days' rides more manageable. However, the forecast for the next few days is for temperatures of 100 degrees.

So this morning I rode up McDonald Pass to the Continental Divide without carrying full gear, to enjoy the cool morning. And as it turned out, lightning and a shower. But just as I left the motel, 4 deer crossed the road to graze on a lawn.
Out of town I met Brian, riding the Great Divide mountain bike route. He is riding a Surly Pugsly with extremely fat tires -- with all the food and water he has to carry, I could barely pick it up. He was at 2,200 miles from the Mexican border. He put my slacking to shame.

Helena MT mile 2683

Left at 7:15, south then west through the Big Belt mountains. Unlike yesterday, the climb out of this dry high plain was relatively short. And no headwind, so I could enjoy the aromas from the purple sage and other flowering plants. But once at the pass, a rapid descent along Deep Creek awaited, with the smells of thick pine and cedar. Long downhill through the green canyon, giving up all the altitude gained yesterday. Then out into dry desert, and further fast downhill coasting, all the way to Townsend, 44 miles from and 1200 ft lower than White Sulphur Springs. After 2nd breakfast, on to Helena, crossing the Missouri again, with big trout visible. Thunderstorm approached Helena as I arrived.

White Sulphur Springs MT mile 2604

Hot, windy, continued. Left at 7am in the cool of the morning, with light west headwind. Saw 4 sandhill cranes, antelope, and a golden eagle. Stopped and chatted with Paul Wipf, a member  of the Hutterite community in Martinsdale. Unlike the Amish and Mennonites, Hutterites live communally, about 100 of them in this settlement. He asked if I could send him a copy of the photo since he didn't have a picture of himself. He had been making soap, thus the apron and long gloves to protect against the lye. 

Later, as I climbed through the Little Belt Mountains against a strengthening head wind, I ran into the American Lung Association Big Ride, from Seattle to D.C. This annual fundraising trip was smaller this year, just 14 riders and 3 support crew, 12 days out of Seattle. My friend Brian O'Sullivan did this in 2007.

And I went to the mineral spring spa here, emerging from the 105 degree pool like a parboiled slightly rotten egg, but very relaxed.

Harlowton MT mile 2543

Hot today, wind again, headwind or sometimes on shoulder. Long day as well, going 91 miles. But much of it was flat or followed a river valley, once I climbed up to the rim of the plateau above Billings. From there a nice view west to real mountains, 11,000 footers with snow on the peaks.

Billings MT mile 2452

Another warm and windy day, but the wildlife and scenery made up for it. Wind NNW 15 mph and gusting more, but as much on shoulder as head wind at times. Barely doing 10 mph as I took old highway 87 west out of Hardin, to avoid interstate 90. The small rattlesnake on the road seemed to be sleeping. I worried that it would get squashed but I didn't dare disturb it. Hardly any traffic anyway. Passed a prairie dog colony, a sweet smelling field of purple sage, and mares nursing colts.
Steep uphill from creek through burned canyon as I approached Billings, then lovely winding descent.

Hardin MT mile 2397

Hot day, with headwind, though sometimes more from the side. Big climb out of Ashland, then rolling open plains. Had breakfast in Lame Deer, in the Northern Cheyenne reservation. Leaving town I passed teenagers and younger kids, some running, some waiting on the side of the road. Then a car passed and stopped, and they explained that today was the anniversary of the Little Bighorn battle--137 years ago. So a youth group was commemorating it by doing a relay run to the battlefield. For the next few hours cars and vans passed me, dropping off and picking up runners. I said hello and encouraged the runners as I went by. At the battlefield there was also a group of Cheyenne horseriders. The Sioux had had their ceremonies in the morning; the Cheyenne in the afternoon. When the runners finally arrived I went to visit them at the site celebrating the native warriors. They included me in their circle, in the ritual spiritual cleansing with incense, and even asked me to speak and join them in their meal afterwards. The group sponsoring this annual event is led by Philip White Man, a very effective speaker who led the prayers and chants and generously included me in this event.

Ashland MT mile 2316

Short day, only rode this morning since too hot after noon, and I was delayed by road construction. Will have to cross two reservations, with only one town the next 60 miles, so best to start early tomorrow.
I chatted with Charlie Carson outside the grocery in Ashland, and he volunteered to be my guide to this very interesting town on the edge of the Northern Cheyenne reservation. A year ago, during the drought, fires burned much of this area. His ranch was not damaged, being 35 miles away over rough gravel roads (otherwise he would have taken me there). He only came to town today to get his tires repaired and buy beer and milk. But he did show me the Father Labre mission and school, with Cheyenne museum and chapel. We also went to a discount store in the Amish section of this community.
We spent 3 hours talking, comparing our lives. He and his wife drove through from VA heading to Alaska 38 years ago but got caught in a snowstorm. They were hippies in a VW van but ended up staying in this conservative hard scrabble town. She raised their 3 boys while teaching in a one room schoolhouse, while he learned to shoe horses and work  construction and became a rancher. They left the ranch for twelve years so their sons could go to high school on the San Juan Islands in Puget Sound. Their sons went on scholarships to Harvard, Middlebury, and U. of MT. 
Another random yet fascinating encounter on this journey.
And of course a storm is approaching this evening.

Charlie Carson

Broadus MT mile 2270

Bright blue sky, 55 degrees when I start before 7am, and a headwind, 10 to 15 mph. Fairly flat, long views, manage 11 or 12 mph most of the day-- 98 miles in 8 1/2 hours. Does warm up, but still a great day to ride. See antelope, and a very out of place looking turkey, scrambling alongside the highway fence trying to escape into the fields.
Crossing into Montana I met Diego and Wenndy, from Spain, heading to Devils Tower and Yellowstone. They had flown in to Chicago, where Diego had bought the motorcycle on Ebay. He planned to ship it home when they depart from LA.
Diego assumed I was European since he never saw Americans touring by bike back in Spain, where he's a policeman in Navarro. And no, he didn't pull me over for speeding.