Bryan OH mile 828

The Ohio Art Company, of Etch a Sketch fame, is located here, next door to my motel.
I wondered why there was a side street called "Toy Street," and then realized the long blocks of buildings had the company's name on them.
Today started sunny and hot and, yes, my sad refrain, a  constant SSW wind blowing me about. But at least there was this wind farm to put it to a  better purpose. Then came clouds spitting rain, and storms coming up from Indianapolis. Waited in the Napoleon OH public library while big gusts whipped the trees, but no downpour. So back on bike, taking back roads to avoid trucks on Route 6. Stopped short today  here in Byran since another batch of storms were headed this way. More due tonight, and tomorrow.

Bowling Green OH mile 771

Stopped for my two hour lunch break/heat respite at the Rutherford B. Hayes museum in Fremont OH. "Rud" to his friends, "Rutherfraud" to his Democratic enemies after the stolen 1876 election, shades of Bush-Gore 2000.  This was the first "presidential library," not all that impressive as befits the man who ended Reconstruction and restored control in the South to the states, ending civil rights for blacks. Liked the house and shady grove of trees, and the Lincoln relics on display: piece of coat he was wearing when assasinated, and a pair of felt bedroom slippers.
As for the rest of the day, same old story: oppressive heat, strong wind (but not a headwind, more from the side), storms nearby this evening. Worse tomorrow?

Oberlin OH mile 686

Wind again: 20 mph SW headwind all day. It took over 7 hours of riding to do 83 miles. Sunny, hot and humid as well. Took a two hour lunch break at a public library, very relaxing.  And got caught in a downpour just as I checked into motel this evening.
But this morning I was at the Center of the World, literally.
This unincorporated community is officially recognized by the state of Ohio. Founded by an eccentric investor who planned to create a major economic center -- but the railroad chose Warren OH instead.

Warren Ohio mile 603

I just had to stop at the "Bikes and Clocks" shop and ask. Apparently the clock business is good during the slow winter bike season. This was mile 600 by the way, one tenth of the way to AK?
And a mile further there is this 1/2 replica of Apollo 11's lunar lander module. Note the footprints in the concrete. Local boy Neil Armstrong took his first flight at age six at the former airfield here, now a seedy shopping mall, near my even sketchier motel.

Waited out showers this morning and again at lunch time, and the sky was threatening as I approached Warren. Storm went north of here, but more expected tonight and tomorrow. Hot and humid wind from southwest as well.

OHIO

To paraphrase W.C.Fields, I once spent a year in Pennsylvania, I think it was last week...

A message to Jim from back in the neighborhood

Franklin PA mile 540

Slept badly due to noise of traffic and late arriving guests, plus a headache that came on during the night. So relied on tea and hot chocolate from this quaint motel's ultra modern Keurig K Cup device-- who knew that it does more than coffee?
Terrific riding through the national forest, heading southwest. Not as cold, not windy until later, not much traffic, meant fine fast riding even with hills and how tired I am. Just miss breakfast when I stop in first town so settle for grilled cheese and lots of iced tea. Bright sun gives way to clouds, temp about 60, wind variable. Head west, and pick up busy 4 lane highway route 62 at Oil City, along the Allegheny River. Oil was actually first discovered in Titusville to the north. Stop when I see the public library, and notice the clock out front: "Hub of Oildom" on top and "Gushing with Pride" on the face.

Kane PA mile 469

Wind, continued. Frost last night, didn't warm up enough to start until 9:30 this morning. But the road followed the Allegheny River through nice valley, pleasant country. Unfortunately the best way to cut through a headwind is in a crouched position with head down, holding your line on the shoulder. Somehow I missed a turnoff. Eight miles later I saw sign for the town I was aiming for as lunch stop -- except the sign pointed south on a different road, nine miles away. This unintended detour added about ten miles.
To illustrate the day I meant to take a picture of a flag straight out in the breeze, but cropped it to highlight this Kane sight. The signboard says "Beyond the illusion."

Coudersport PA, mile 408

Wellsboro: Wynken, Blynken, and Nod

Rode west into the cold wind and managed 64 tough miles through the "endless hills of Pennsylvania."
NW wind 20-25 mph, high temp just 54. The wind resistance was strong and the cold draining. Gusts can  knock the bike about and make the riding even harder.
After the first 12 miles, I stopped for tea and a bagel and to try and get warm in Wellsboro. The town park fountain has this Wynken, Blynken, and Nod statue. I was shivering too much to appreciate the "wind that sped them all night long."

Becalmed in Mansfield, PA

Not cycling day 2: 39 degrees this morning, rain or drizzle, and a cold hard wind all day made my decision for me.
So I drank tea, ate toast, and read:
Cold Granite, by Stuart McBride, a police procedural set in Aberdeen, Scotland. Dreary, appropriately cold and rainy throughout the story.
Hell on Two Wheels, about the 2009 Race Across America, bike endurance race from Santa Monica to Annapolis. Winner finished in 8 days, 6 hours and 1 minute. Scary. Inspiring? Not so much.

Then went to university bookstore for a new book for the road: Margaret Atwood's Oryx and Crake.

Mansfield PA 340 miles

A day off in this nice college town. Yesterday was another short day, stopping before noon at this bike shop. Needed to deal with a worn out cleat that was making clacking noises. While intermittent, annoying. Walked in the door pushing my bike and the owner says "you must be Jim." My friend Brian (who I rode to NC to visit last fall) had emailed Tom Oswald to expect me. Brian bought a frame from Tom when he was just starting out as a custom frame builder. We chatted about my trip and my general state of fatigue and frustration with the hot weather. Solution was to just stop and stay the night, crashing on floor space offered by mechanic Jim Frank, who lives in apartment above shop. Great brewpub few doors down, nice lunch and breakfast place across street, libraries (university and town) to spend time in while waiting for stormy weather to arrive. So nice, I decided to take a full rest day. Ah, the simple pleasures of retirement!

Towanda PA, 301 miles

   

Traffic, hot and humid. The only races were between me and the heavy trucks hauling oversize loads bearing down on the narrow, broken pavement. Doo-da.
Stopped for lunch and couldn't get started again, when the SW wind picked up.
Resting up to face the heat tomorrow, not ready for  summer weather, all the doo-da day.

New Milford PA. 253 miles

Long day, 103 miles. Sunny
and humid after cool morning, nice rolling riding along Pepacton reservoir (NYC water supply) and east branch of the Delaware. Then up and over steeply to New Milford and this cute mausoleum, er, library.

How fracked was my valley

The red trailers and light stanchions mark a natural gas field. Big pipeline on other side of road goes uphill and down to I-81 and New Milford, PA. The woman who runs this alpaca farm said the noise was constant the last 15 days: trucks, bright lights, constant traffic. Today was the first quiet one. When they were setting off explosives she said it was like small earthquakes. One alpaca died, another had a stillbirth. She was angry to say the least.

Catskill kitsch

I'm in Margaretville NY, 150 miles. Rain in the forecast, so I'm motel-ling, relaxing, tired.

"Thar he goes!"

Neighbors gathered to wish Jim well and see him off.

Starting from zero

Saturday, May 18, 2013, 9:00 a.m., 16 hours into his retirement, and he's off to Alaska!

Prospectus

West - to DeKalb IL, Yellowstone, Spokane/Portland

North - to Banff & Jasper National Parks, Alaska Highway

West - to Dawson, Fairbanks, Denali, Anchorage, Dillingham